Stocking



resented Jan. 11, 193s f UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.-

s'rocmNG 03cm Walter Martien, Drexel Hill, Pa. Application my 4, 1937, serial No. 140,583

2Claims.

My invention relates to a stocking and more particularly to a ladys stocking of the type made on at machines and known as full-fashioned.

This type of stocking is either mis-named or 5 not accurately named for the reason that it is not fully shaped or fashioned in the real sense of the word in that the shaping or fashioning, as shown by the fashioning marks in the conventional so called full-fashioned stockings ex- 'tend for a space of three and one-half inches more or less along that portion of the stocking registering with the upper portion of the calf of the leg. 'Ihese`|` fashioning and narrowing marks, while serving somewhat to shape the calf l5 portion of the stocking, are nevertheless not really eiIective in shaping the entire leg for the reason that they are placed and cover the area of the stocking which least needs fashioning, or shaping. In other words, the average calf of the average leg usually ilts well within the average leg portion of a stocking, and the place which really needs fashioning or narrowing and which, by observatiom will be seen to be the portion where agood fit is not now achieved, is between the heel top and the lower portion .of the calf, or where the calf of the leg begins to narrow down to form the ankle. This portion of the stocking is not properly shaped or fashioned by the conventional narrowing now employed.

Furthermore, as will be seen if a conventional full-fashioned stocking is minutely examined either by means of an enlarged photograph or under a magnifying glass, the conventional narrowing marks exert a pull against the wales of the stocking which tends to dispose the wales at a relatively large, angle with respect to the vertical seam thus putting a strain on the wales and producing the visual effect of enlarging or fattening the calf which effect is undesirable exceptionally thin calf. Also, when a conventional full-fashioned stocking is worn it will be nQted thatthe lower ends of the initially, substantially parallel rows of fashioning marks tend toy diverge at about the point where the calf of the leg begins to taper downwardly, thereby producing the visual effect of a thick ankle. In order to insure a clear understanding I wish to explain that by calf, as the term is used in the specication and claims, I intend to designate the portion of the leg where it begins to swell from a point below the knee until said portion begins to taper downwardly, and that by ankle I mean that portion ofthe leg` which 55 begins at the point where the calf .begins to ,cept in the most exceptional cases of an ex (Cl. l66--1'18) taper and until the leg begins to enlarge at a point slightly above the heel proper or the transversely projecting ankle bones. Furthermore, the tension that the narrowing points exert on the wales tends to weaken the structure and increase the hazard of runs particularly when the extremely sheer character of the stocking is taken into consideration. Another disadvantage in the full-fashioned stockings heretofore used is that the fashioning or narrowing points constitute relatively large and rough knobs or projections which tend to snag and catch and this is due to the fact that the entire number of needles, which are dropped in the narrowing of a stocking, are dropped according to conventional methods inv the relatively limited space of about three and one-half inches, so that the proximity of the narrowing marks to each other, and the necessity of eiecting all the narrowing vwithin that s'hort space, produces the eiect referred to which really mars the appearance of the stocking rather than improves it. Indeed, the narrowing points could be placed closer to the selvedge and taken up in the seam when the stocking blank is sewed except for the fact that in-that case a fullfashioned stocking could not be distinguished by lthe average purchaser from a seamless stocking provided with a mock seam. In other words, the fashioning marks are now positioned where they are primarily to indicate that the stocking is made on a flat machine or full-fashioned and not because the two substantially parallel three and one-half inch long rows of rough and relatively crude narrowing points are in themselves desirable.

It is therefore the object of my invention to produce a new stocking which is really full fashioned in the sense that it is fashioned from the point at which present narrowing points begin, at the top of the calf, all the way down to the lower end of the ankle or the top of the heel, thereby shaping or fashioning the stocking leg along its entire length and thus producing a better t a better appearance and a stronger structure all over.

A still further object of my invention is to eliminate or substantially reduce the strain on the wales forming the portion -of the stocking along which the narrowing points extend, not only to decrease the hazard of runs resulting from weakening of the wales, but also to permit the wales to extend substantially vertical up and down, or substantially parallel with the seam thus giving the thickened portion of the calf the visual effect of straightness and slightly ex- 55 aggerating its length thus giving the leg a most attractive appearance.-

A clear understanding of the contrast I have tried to draw`between the conventional stocking and the stocking made according to my inventionfcould be had if two stockings, one

made according to the conventional full-fashioned style and one according to my invention,

. which otherwise are identical, are mounted on vention.

Fig. 2 represents a fragmentary rear elevation of the same showing more of the lower part of the stocking than is shown in Fig. 1.

` Fig. 3 represents a diagrammatic and fragmentaryerear elevation of a stocking blank4 embodying my invention before it is seamed.

Referring to the drawing in which like reference characters represent like parts, I designates the leg portion of a stocking which usually corresponds to the calf of a leg. 2 designates the ankle portion and 3 represents the top of the heel. 4 designates the seam. The parts so far described are conventional.

In conventional full-fashioned stockings thev narrowing points 5 only extended 4from about the point designated A to approximately the point designated B and were disposed in two rows which were substantially parallel whenthe stocking was not worn on the leg but which diverged at their' lower ends when the stocking was worn. Furthermore, all the needles that are dropped in the process of the narrowing of the stocking were dropped in conventional practice in approximately the space A-B. This resulted in excessive tension on the wales or courses which were, due to the pull exerted thereon, stretched taut at relatively great angles to the seam 4 and to the narrowing points 5 themselves. 'I'his not only increased the hazard of runs due to strain, but also, the divergence of the wales with respect to the narrowing points together with the vdiver- -gence of the lower portion of the narrowing points 5 themselves, gave the calf of the leg, as well as the ankle near the upper end of which the rows of narrowing points diverged, a rather flat or thickened appearance. Furthermore, the narrowing points confined in the space A-B only shaped or fashioned the stocking along that general area and left the lower portion of the stocking entirely unfashioned and simply sewed or seamed into a tubular formation. Accordingto my invention, instead of dropping the entire number of needles in the space A-B, I distribute the dropping of the needles along the space A-C, which, as will best be seen from Fig. 3, extends from the point at which the conventional narrowing marks begin (near the top of the calf) all the way down to the top of the heel of the stocking. The 'lowermost four or ve of the narrowing points are taken up in the seam 4 (see Fig. 2) when the stocking is sewed so that, in the finished product, the narrowing points are visible only along the distance A-D. The gradual converging of the narrowing points from B to D as well as the shaping of the leg of the stocking by means of the invisible narrowing points between D and C gives the lower portion of the calf and the ankle 2 of the stocking a tapering and well-rounded eiIect. while the diverging of the narrowing points from B to E gives the calf a.

formed leg. In addition tothe visual effect produced by the disposition of thenarrowing points as stated, it will be seen that the wales of knitting 6 between the narrowing points 5 and the seam 4 are substantially parallel with the seam and fthat, the wales 1 disposed outside of the narrowing points 5 are disposed. at very small angles with respect to the seam 4 or the narrowing points 5. The practically vertically disposed wales 6 also aid in giving the rear portion of the calf a graceful lengthened appearance, 4while the only slightly inclined wales 'l give the calf and the leg in general a well-turned eect. Furthermore, the disposition of the wales 6 vertically, and of the wales 1 at only a very slight angle, greatly decreases tension or pull on the wales andv hence adds to their durability and renders them less breakable than they would be otherwise. By dropping the narrowing needles available over the entire distance A-C, the resulting narrowing points 5 are spread over doublethe conventional distance A-B and hence are smaller, smoother and less conspicuous. Since the narrowing points begin to converge downwardly from about the point B to about the point C, it will be seen that the upper portion of the narrowing points, namely, from the point B to the point "A, are substantially parallel with each other as well as with; the selvedge edges which ultimately are joined by` the seam 4. While this is true of the stocking in its blank form, as seen in Fig. 3, the narrowing points from B to A assume a very slight arcuate form when the stocking is worn, but not enough to destroy or alter their substantially parallel disposition as noted.

It will thus be seen that I have produced a new stocking which is really, and in the full sense of the word, fully shaped or fashioned, in that it is shaped from the top of the heel to the top of the calf, and that, by doing so. I have created a distinctly new and improved t and appearance ofthe stocking, ,and greatly increased its strength and durability.l

While in the drawing Iliave shown the narrowing marks or points as extending from the top of the heel to the present day conventional upper extremity of the leg, it is to be understood that my-invention is not hunted to this specic disclosure since a lesser or greater number of needles may be dropped, or the needles dropped may be spread over a longer or shorter extent, the

f principal feature of my invention being in converging the narrowing marks and extending them as far as it is necessary to shape the ankle as well as the calf ot the leg and in relieving the tension on the wales to lessen the danger of breakage, as

extend along the calf portion are substantially parallel withthe'selvedge edges, and in which the remainingv narrowing points which extend down to the top of the heel portion gradually converge towards their respective selvedge edges so that several of the lowerrnost of said. narrowing points are taken up in the seam when said blank is formed into a stocking.

2. A full-fashioned stocking made lfrom the blank dened in claim 1, wherein several of the narrowing points next above the top of the heel merge -with the seam of said stocking.

OSCAR WALTER MARDEN. 

